Phillips brings to auction the “Vanderbilt Sapphire” of 42.68 carats in Geneva featuring Priority Bidding

Monday, November 10, Phillips opens in Geneva the highly anticipated auction “The Geneva Jewels Auction V”, an event that will bring together some of the most refined jewels of the Belle Époque, signed by Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and other great masters of high jewelry.

Among the absolute protagonists stands out “The Vanderbilt Sapphire”, a Kashmir sapphire of 42.68 carats, set in a diamond brooch signed by Tiffany & Co., estimated between 1 and 1.5 million dollars (CHF 800,000–1,200,000).

This extraordinary specimen, of an intense Royal Blue color, belonged to Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi, heir of the famous American dynasty that symbolized the wealth and taste of the Gilded Age. The jewel, accompanied by AGL, SSEF, and Gübelin certificates, represents the elegance and ambition of an era, embodying the jewelry art of Tiffany in the early years of the 20th century.

Alongside the historical masterpieces, the Phillips Geneva auction will offer an additional novelty for collectors: the opportunity to participate with the new “Priority Bidding” formula, introduced by Phillips last September and now also applied to jewelry sales.

Priority Bidding: the innovation that is revolutionizing Phillip’s auctions

The Priority Bidding is a system of priority offers that allows participants to submit their bids 48 hours before the auction, benefiting from discounted rates and premium treatment during the sale.

The objective is to stimulate a more dynamic market, ensuring greater visibility for the lots and a more active participation from the collectors.

Since its introduction, the system has already demonstrated remarkable results:

• The lots with Priority Bids recorded performances up to 66% higher compared to pre-sale estimates.
• The offerte preliminari have increased by over 300% year-on-year in some auctions.

For the Jewelry sector, the first tests took place in Hong Kong last September with excellent results: two-thirds of the lots sold received Priority Bids and over 30% of the participants who had placed early bids then continued to bid during the sale.

According to Phillips, this approach represents a concrete step towards a greater market efficiency, benefiting both sellers, who desire lively and competitive auctions, and collectors, who gain a more transparent and flexible participation experience.

Masterpieces of the Belle Époque under the spotlight at auction in Geneva

The Geneva auction will feature a selection of vintage and contemporary jewelry, many of which belonged to important private collections.
Among the highlights are creations by Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, and other iconic names, with a particular focus on craftsmanship excellence and the quality of the gems.

The “Vanderbilt Sapphire”, a legendary stone that belonged to the famous American family, will be one of the most sought-after lots. Its intense color and the purity of the gem make it a symbol of beauty and rarity, destined to attract the interest of the most demanding international collectors.

The charm of the Vanderbilt collection: between history and high jewelry

The sale includes twelve pieces from the Vanderbilt family collection, one of the most prestigious in America, which combines artistic value and historical charm.

In addition to the famous sapphire, the auction will feature a Cartier brooch in diamonds, originally part of a tiara made in 1908 for the wedding of Gladys Vanderbilt with Count László Széchényi, with a pear-cut diamond of 4.55 carats (estimate USD 100,000–150,000 / CHF 80,000–120,000).

The collection is completed by a brooch in emeralds and diamonds from the late 19th century, a diamond hair ornament from the early 20th century, a Cartier “8 Days” travel clock (a Christmas gift from 1913), a vanity case in gold, rubies, and diamonds, and a Cartier wristwatch with the monogram “GS”.
These objects, which combine craftsmanship and family history, offer collectors a rare glimpse into the aesthetic and cultural legacy of the Vanderbilt family.

Innovation and tradition: the strategy of Phillips

The Geneva sale will also be the first jewelry auction in Europe to integrate the “Priority Bidding” system, launched by Phillips in September 2025.
This mechanism allows collectors to submit binding bids at least 48 hours before the auction, with reduced Buyer’s Premium rates compared to standard ones. The bids must be equal to or higher than the minimum estimate of the lot and, in case of winning, the buyer benefits from the reduced rate even if they bid again during the sale.

According to Martin Wilson, CEO of Phillips, the goal is to encourage early engagement, creating more competition in the room and greater certainty for sellers. “Rewarding collectors who commit early – he explained – stimulates a more dynamic and transparent auction, with better results for all parties involved.”

The first results of the system are clear:

• in the Hong Kong September auctions, two-thirds of the sold lots received priority bids and over 30% of Priority participants continued to place bids during the sale.

• the lotti con Priority Bids exceeded the pre-sale estimates by up to 66%;

• the offerte preliminari have increased by over 300% year-on-year.

A season of innovation and tradition

With the “Geneva Jewels Auction V”, Phillips Jewels reaffirms its position in the international landscape as a meeting point between historical heritage and technological innovation.
The introduction of Priority Bidding represents a strategic turning point for the luxury auction market, ensuring transparency, efficiency, and trust in an increasingly competitive and global sector.

As highlighted by Benoît Repellin, Worldwide Head of Jewellery at Phillips, “the Vanderbilt jewels embody the purity of Belle Époque elegance and the allure of historical collecting. Presenting them at auction during a time of strong demand for signed vintage pieces means responding to a market that seeks authenticity and prestigious provenances.”

Key topic for Phillips: innovation

The Phillips auction in Geneva is shaping up to be one of the most anticipated events in the international jewelry market.
Among masterpieces of the Belle Époque and technological innovations, Phillips continues to redefine the auction experience, offering new opportunities to both collectors and sellers.

The success of Priority Bidding marks a significant evolution: a signal that the future of auctions, even in the world of high jewelry, increasingly relies on innovation and early participation.
It remains to be seen how this formula will continue to transform the market in the coming months — but one thing is certain: the change has already begun.

Amelia Tomasicchio

As expert in digital marketing, Amelia began working in the fintech sector in 2014 after writing her thesis on Bitcoin technology. Previously author for several international crypto-related magazines and CMO at Eidoo. She is now the co-founder and editor-in-chief of The Cryptonomist and Econique.

She is also a marketing teacher at Digital Coach in Milan and she published a book about NFTs for the Italian publishing house Mondadori, while she is also helping artists and company to entering in the sector. As advisor, Amelia is also involved in metaverse-related project such as The Nemesis and OVER.